FASHION
Fashion is a term commonly used to describe a style of
clothing worn by most of people of a country. A fashion usually remains popular
for about 1-3 years and then is replaced by yet another fashion. Even though
there are a lot of changes in fashion, most people do not easily except the
changes.A clothing style may be introduced as a fashion, but its use becomes a
custom after being handed down from generation to generation. A fashion that
comes and goes is called a Fad.During the mid-1800's, a mass production of
clothing was made fashionable and available to more people for lower prices.
This encouraged more people to wear more stylish clothes which is why we are
wearing what we are today.
Clothing is made out of all types of material such as
cotton, rayon, spandex, and polyester,and they are just a few used. Some
clothing may even be made of 2 or more different types, this is known as "
Blending."Clothing can be decorated or designed with all types of images
and colors. The designs can either be embroidered onto the fabric, woven on to
the fabric, silk screened, or ironed onto the fabric to create a desired look.
Some images that have been used to enhance an article of clothing range from a
simple design on front of a T shirt to a famous printing that has been woven
into fabric creating a colorful piece of art that one can wear.The first purpose of
clothes... was not warmth or decency, but ornament.... Among wild people, we
find tattooing and painting even prior to clothes. The first spiritual
want of a barbarous man is decoration; as indeed we still see among the
barbarous classes in civilized countries. ~Thomas CarlyleThe term fashion
though is new to many; literally speaking fashion came into being
with the advent of human being in this world. Adam and Eve covered themselves
with fig leaves though at that time they had no concept of modesty.
Ornamentation and adornment thus had always been a strong force behind
clothing. Later civilizations seek different ways to adorn themselves. People
of Stone Age tattooed their bodies, used leaves and twigs to cover their naked
bodies. Pharaohs on the other hand loved to display their wealth by clothing in
most extravagant ways. They wore wigs, painted their bodies, and embalmed their
dead in most beautiful clothes.Christianity preached moderation in dressing,
but very few obeyed that. Islam on the other hand formulated a complete dress
code for both male and female.
Modern fashion got
strength during Renaissance time. Aristocrats of Renaissance time were
great patrons of fashion. They developed new fashion and promoted it. Today
fashion is very complex. It includes not only apparel, footwear, accessories
and jewellery but fashion is the way we dress, the way we talk, technology we
are using, food we are eating, friends we are having and a lot more. Nobody can
deny the influence of fashion. Each of us is constantly affected by fashion in
one or other way. Print media and electronic media are most important in
shaping our lifestyles. Even those who are anti-fashionionists are part of the
fashion world in their own way. They are making their own fashion statements.
As Cecil Beaton said that “truly fashionable are beyond fashion.”Fashion is a playground of
paradox: creative and technical; art and profit; local and global. It throws a
diverse set of people together to transform a creative vision into something
tangible and profitable.Unfortunately the people involved in apparel
development often operate as islands. Cut off from the rest of the process,
they throw their messages out to sea, hoping they make it to the right people
intact. Inefficient systems and tools litter their workday and force them into
tedious routines. Disconnected and overburdened, they work to do their best,
but without being able to see beyond their own isolated shore, they aren't
given a chance to contribute to their full potential. What if companies could
build bridges between those islands?And not just a bridge from one island to
the next, but a system of bridges to form a strong, reinforced network and
create community across development? Well they can. That's what it means to
build collaboration into the heart of fashion development.The fashion industry
is a product of the modern age. Prior to the mid-19th century, most clothing
was custom made. It was handmade for individuals, either as home
production or on order from dressmakers and tailors. By the beginning of the
20th century—with the rise of new technologies such as the sewing machine, the
rise of global capitalism and the development of the factory system of
production, and the proliferation of retail outlets such as department
stores—clothing had increasingly come to be mass- produced in
standard sizes and sold at fixed prices. Although the fashion industry
developed first in Europe and America, today it is an international and highly
globalized industry, with clothing often designed in one country, manufactured
in another, and sold world-wide. For example, an American fashion company might
source fabric in China and have the clothes manufactured in Vietnam, finished
in Italy, and shipped to a warehouse in the United States for distribution to
retail outlets internationally. The fashion industry has long been one of the
largest employers in the United States, and it remains so in the 21st century.
However, employment declined considerably as production increasingly moved
overseas, especially to China. Because data on the fashion industry typically
are reported for national economies and expressed in terms of the industry’s
many separate sectors, aggregate figures for world production of textiles and
clothing are difficult to obtain. However, by any measure, the industry
accounts for a significant share of world economic output.The fashion industry
consists of four levels: the production of raw materials, principally fibres
and textiles but also leather and fur; the production of fashion goods by
designers, manufacturers, contractors, and others; retail sales; and various
forms of advertising and promotion. These levels consist of many separate but
interdependent sectors, all of which are devoted to the goal of satisfying
consumer demand for apparel under conditions that enable participants in the
industry to operate at a profit.
The media plays a very significant role when
it comes to fashion. For instance, an important part of fashion is fashion
journalism. Editorial critique, guidelines and commentary can be found in
magazines, newspapers, on television, fashion websites, social networks and in fashion
blogs. In the recent years, fashion blogging and YouTube videos has become a
major outlet for spreading trends and fashion tips. Through these media
outlets, readers and viewers all over the world can learn about fashion, making
it very accessible. At the beginning of the 20th century, fashion magazines
began to include photographs of various fashion designs and became even more
influential on people than in the past. In cities throughout the world these
magazines were greatly sought-after and had a profound effect on public
clothing taste. Talented illustrators drew exquisite fashion plates
for the publications which covered the most recent developments in fashion
and beauty. Perhaps the most famous of these magazines was La
Guzette du Bon which was founded in 1912 by Lucien Vogel and regularly
published until 1925 (with the exception of the war years). Vogue, founded in
the US in 1892, has been the longest-lasting and most successful of
the hundreds of fashion magazines that have come and gone. Increasing affluence
after World War II and, most importantly, the advent of cheap colour
printing in the 1960s led to a huge boost in its sales, and heavy coverage of
fashion in mainstream women's magazines—followed by men's magazines from the
1990s. One such example of Vogue's popularity is the younger version, Teen
Vogue, which provides clothing and trends that are more targeted toward the
"fashionista on a budget." Haute couture designers followed the trend
by starting the ready-to-wear and perfume lines, heavily
advertised in the magazines, that now dwarf their original couture businesses.
Television coverage began in the 1950s with small fashion features. In the
1960s and 1970s, fashion segments on various entertainment shows became more
frequent, and by the 1980s, dedicated fashion shows such as Fashion –television started
to appear. Fashion TV was the pioneer in this undertaking and has since
grown to become the leader in both Fashion Television and New Media Channels
compared to other Fashion Magazines. Despite television and increasing internet
coverage, including fashion blogs, press coverage remains the most important
form of publicity in the eyes of the fashion industry.However, over the past
several years, fashion websites have developed that merge traditional editorial
writing with user-generated content. Online magazines like iFashion
Network, and Runway Magazine, led by Nole Marin from
America's Next Top Model, have begun to dominate the market with digital copies
for computers,iPhone and iPads . Example platforms include Apple and
Android for such applications.
A few days after the 2010 Fall Fashion Week
in New York City came to a close, The New Islander’s Fashion
Editor, Genevieve Tax, criticized the fashion industry for running on a
seasonal schedule of its own, largely at the expense of real-world consumers.
"Because designers release their fall collections in the spring and their
spring collections in the fall, fashion magazines such as Vogue always and only
look forward to the upcoming season, promoting parkas come September while
issuing reviews on shorts in January," she writes. "Savvy shoppers,
consequently, have been conditioned to be extremely, perhaps impractically,
farsighted with their buying." Ethnic Fashion is defined as the Fashion of
Multicultural groups such as African-American, Hispanics, Asians, etc. Examples
of Ethnic Designer are FUBU, BabyPhat, FatFarm, Sean John, Etc. It is estimated
that Ethnic Fashion has contributed over 25 Billion dollars in revenues, thus
making them a large, very important part of the fashion industry.
Within the fashion industry, intellectual
property is not enforced as it is within the film industry and music industry . Robert
Glariston, intellectual property expert at Creative Business House (organization
specializing in fashion and trade marking), mentions in a fashion seminar held
in LA that "Copyright law regarding clothing is a current hot-button issue
in the industry. We often have to draw the line between designers being
inspired by a design and those outright stealing it in different places."
To "take inspiration" from others' designs contributes to the fashion
industry's ability to establish clothing trends. For the past few years, WGSN
has been a dominant source of fashion news and forecasts in steering fashion
brands worldwide to be "inspired" by one another. Enticing consumers
to buy clothing by establishing new trends is, some have argued, a key
component of the industry's success. Intellectual property rules that interfere
with the process of trend-making would, in this view, be counter-productive. On
the other hand, it is often argued that the blatant theft of new ideas, unique
designs, and design details by larger companies is what often contributes to
the failure of many smaller or independent design companies.
Since fakes are distinguishable by their
inherent poorer quality, there is still a demand for luxury goods. And as only
a trademark of logo can be copyrighted for clothing and accessories,
many fashion brands make this one of the most visible aspects of the garment or
accessory. In handbags, especially, the designer's brand may be woven into the fabric
(or the lining fabric) from which the bag is made — this makes the brand an
intrinsic element of the bag.In 2005, the World Intellectural Property
Organization WIPO) held a conference calling for stricter intellectual property
enforcement within the fashion industry to better protect small and medium
businesses and promote competitiveness within the textile and clothing industries.
Fashion
is something we deal with everyday. Even people who say they don't care what
they wear choose clothes every morning that say a lot about them and how they
feel that day.
One certain thing in the fashion world is change. We are
constantly being bombarded with new fashion ideas from music, videos, books,
and television. Movies also have a big impact on what people wear. Ray-Ban sold
more sunglasses after the movie Men In Black. Sometimes a trend is
world-wide. Back in the 1950s, teenagers everywhere dressed like Elvis Presley.
Who dictates fashion?
Musicians and other cultural icons have always influenced
what we're wearing, but so have political figures and royalty. Newspapers and
magazines report on what Hillary Clinton wears. The recent death of Diana, the
Princess of Wales, was a severe blow to the high fashion world, where her
clothes were daily news.Even folks in the 1700s pored over fashion magazines to
see the latest styles. Women and dressmakers outside the French court relied on
sketches to see what was going on. The famous French King Louis XIV said that
fashion is a mirror. Louis himself was renowned for his style, which tended
towards extravagant laces and velvets.
Clothes separate people into groups.
Fashion is revealing. Clothes reveal what groups people
are in. In high school, groups have names: "goths, skaters, preps,
herbs." Styles show who you are, but they also create stereotypes and
distance between groups. For instance, a businessman might look at a boy with green
hair and multiple piercings as a freak and outsider. But to another person, the
boy is a strict conformist. He dresses a certain way to deliver the message of
rebellion and separation, but within that group, the look is uniform.
Acceptance or rejection of a style is a reaction to the society we live in.
Fashion is a language which tells a story about the
person who wears it. "Clothes create a wordless means of communication
that we all understand," according to Katherine Hamnett, a top British
fashion designer. Hamnett became popular when her t-shirts with large messages
like "Choose Life" were worn by several rock bands.
Prof. John Kurakar
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